Walled City

Quebec City is the only remaining walled city in North America. But first, I visited the Quebec Houses of Parliament. I would be surprised if any other such building had a vegetable garden in front of them. The other side at the front has a more normal public garden.

The Houses of Parliament are next to the ramparts which surround old Quebec City, and make it a World Heritage Area.

The Artillery museum is built above the ruins of a gunpowder store.

It has some really interesting dioramas of Quebec City. The first is the different positions of the walls at various times.

The second was built in 1808, sent to England for many years, but was recently returned to Quebec City.

The third is just a drawing of how it is now.

Then I visited the Museum of French America. This was entered through an elaborate chapel.

It shows how the French settled in America, including a very interesting display of the original French settlement that was uncovered recently when works were undertaken near Quebec City. People had not realised that it even existed.

Citadel

Today I spent most of the day trying to find the entrance to the citadel. I started at the Plains of Abraham, where the final battle between the English and the French occurred. It is a huge area, with undulating ground above the escarpment.

In the museum they had an excellent explanation of the entire war, including the various uniforms worn by the English and the French, and much else besides.

The citadel was next to the museum, but no entrance, so I went along the governors walk, which goes between the ramparts of the citadel and the escarpment. But that lead me to the chateau (which was built by the railway to encourage tourism to Quebec - it’s the most photographed hotel in the world) and down many steps.

When I turned around, there was the citadel! So I went back up the hill, found the entrance and took a tour (mandatory since it’s an army base). The Governor General of Canada has a residence there.

More importantly, the French bastion is still there.

I came out, and saw various parts of the original city wall, and the basilica.

Lower Quebec City river

I took a picture of the street where I stayed before I left Montreal today.

The train trip was good, going through farmland with corn fields and contented cattle, mixed with lots of deciduous forest with the trees beginning to turn. At the end of the trip was Quebec City Railway Station, which must be seen to be believed!

The first thing of note I saw in Quebec City was the biggest granary I've ever seen in my life.

After settling in, I found the Museum of civilisation, which had a lot of indigenous work. Unfortunately, it closed before I had seen it all, so I walked further around the lower city.

The tides have eaten away the banks of the Lawrence river here, so they’re very steep escarpments, as you can see from the view of the other bank. On the Quebec City side, a lot of the land has been progressively reclaimed, so they now have a deep water port that can even take cruise ships like the Disney Magic.

The escarpment makes the location of Quebec City a natural site for a fortress - it is protected by the escarpment on three sides, and the river is much narrower here than elsewhere. Also, the river becomes shallower fairly soon after Quebec City. However, the citadel and the fortifications in the lower city are quite imposing.

Mont Royal

The McCord Museum explores the history of Canada, and has a wonderful indigenous collection.

However, at the moment it is also host to an exhibition on Balenciaga, including some from the museum, and some of the other fashion designers he influenced.

Then I visited the Barbie exhibition. Barbies represented every country, including Australia. There were also many famous people represented.

Finally, I visited the Museum of Fine Arts. This was a bit disappointing because several of the exhibits were closed due to repairs. Actually, Montreal is undergoing a lot of repair currently - many streets are closed or partly open because they seem to be replacing vast swathes of the sewer system, every museum has some exhibits closed, and construction is everywhere. However, they had an exhibition of books of house, medieval naves, some indigenous art, and a lot of other stuff, spread over five buildings.

A glutton for punishment, I decided to have a quick trip up many stairs to the Mont Royal Chalet and lookout, only to get there via the long route. I found out why on the way down, as there were major maintenance activities in the park too. But the view was magnificent. I seemed to have walked a very long way from the river where I’m staying.

Montreal

Yesterday I traveled to Montreal by train. I was in the aisle, and the two people in the window seats closed the curtain, so I couldn’t see much.

Today it rained.However, I’m in Old Montreal, and it is superb. I’m opposite Marche Bonseceurs, the original market.

I visited Pointe-a-Calliere where they have dug up the original site of Montreal. You walk among the ruins, including the original sewer.

They include a lot of the history, including the treaty between the French and at least 30 different Indian tribes, that allowed the French to take over the entire interior of North America down to Louisiana. One room was devoted to the customs house site, and when I got out - there was the building!

It also had an exhibition of the Egyptian Queens, including some amazing stuff, some of which you may recognise.